Free PDF , by Peter J. Westwick
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, by Peter J. Westwick
Free PDF , by Peter J. Westwick
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Product details
File Size: 5976 KB
Print Length: 418 pages
Page Numbers Source ISBN: 0307719480
Publisher: Crown (July 23, 2013)
Publication Date: July 23, 2013
Sold by: Random House LLC
Language: English
ASIN: B00B6OVOCW
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Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#321,031 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
Two SoCal surfer dudes who also happen to be history researcher/professors at UCSB & USC connect the history of Hawaii, California, Australia & other surf locales through the lens of surfing. The authors did a brilliant job explaining how and why surfing evolved from a sacred Hawaiian leisure activity into the modern sport and activity enjoyed by millions and a lifestyle that fascinates millions more. They dispel many long held myths with academic yet still very readable explanations how surfing soul slowly grew through the 20th century into a multi-billion dollar industry going strong in the 21st century global economy. As a transplant (from the lakes & rivers of Madison, Wisconsin!) SoCal-Baja/SD/OC/LA surfer for the past 20 years I have read quiet a bit about the various characters and history of surfing. Overall their take is a very interesting blend of thoroughly researched academic history and fun readable surfer dude history! EnJoy!!
As someone born in San Clemente, many of the names and places bring back memories. This is the consummate text as to the history and pathology of surfing. This is the first book to really give George Freeth his due (even though no mention is made of the fact that he saved a bunch of Japanese fishermen in California and they named a town after him). This book also recognizes Miki Dora for what he was. Westwick does give short shift to Big Wednesday, a film that had a mega effect on the masses and he effectively tones down Greg Noll's constant cursing (it's old hat Noll; you're cool, we get it). Brilliant stuff.
A good readable overview of surfing. The authors keep it fresh and not derivative of previous narratives.Not sure that I agree with the authors' avoiding the topic of modern professional surfing. The quality level of modern professional surfing is insane right now. Not that it has much to do with what most surfers do, but it has a lot to do with what most surfers want to do (if they are honest with themselves).
One of my favorite books about surfing. Tells the full story from multiple perspectives while never straying from the main topic. Fascinating information and easy to read.
Great book, a totally different take on history. A few things here and there are bothersome, such as the reference to using guava leaves (p. 11). Guavas are not Hawaiian trees, so arrived from South America/Mexico some years after Cook. The leaf use is not cited as to when observed. Overall an excellent book.
Gave this book to my husband who surfs and has read many, many surfing-related books. This one has an unusual take on the sport beside just the history, it weaves stories and interesting tidbits into the history. When he finished it, I read it as well. Really enjoyable and interesting. Highly recommend!
Great Surf book. Not your usual surf book, great history excellent writing! A must by for any level of surfer!
This is a terrific book. It is smart, charming, and engrossing. Anyone who grew up in the 1950s, 1960s, or 1970s just has to read this book to understand the impact of surfing on popular culture. And of course, anyone with an interest in surfing has to read this, as well as anyone who lives or has visited California, Hawaii, or Australia. I read this on a trip to Maui and could hardly put it down long enough to enjoy the view.
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